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home » nepal » expedition » mount manaslu

Mount Manaslu Expedition (8163m)
AUTUMN DEPARTURE: 26th August - 24th October 2010

Manaslu (8163m) have summated in 1956 by a Japanese expedition team. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intelligence" or " soul". Just as the British considered Everest their mountain. Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain. HW Tillman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950. But the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Budhi Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them the first team had been responsible for an avalanche that destroyed a monastery and refused to let the 1954 expedition. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himal instead. Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a South Korean attempt in 1971 and in April 1972 an avalanche that killed five climbers and 10 Sherpas ended the second made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyrolean expedition that climbed from the Marshyangdi valley in 1972.

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The Climb

There will be three camps will set above base camp before summiting the peak of Manaslu. We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp before taking first trip to Manaslu glacier. The ascent begins right after we step on to Manaslu glacier. The route here will be heavily crevassed and fix the rope over the cautious sections in bamboo marker wands.  We then reach to the camp I which lies on a protected shoulder at the head of Manaslu glacier.

There will be fixed ropes required on most of the route from Camp I to Camp II. Camp II located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a flat spot. Even though it is located in the flat spot safe of danger this site can receive heavy snow accumulation.  This is the most technical section of the Manaslu climb. The route now continuously up through the upper glacier approaching Camp III. Camp III located on a flat saddle that lies just below the col where you’ll experience strong winds here.

The climb from Camp III to Camp IV continues up the glacier weaving through the serac with some steep sections of ice and snow where fixed ropes required.

Once you make Camp IV then you’ll approach summit. The route to summit tiered plateaus before reaching at the final Pyramid slope. The summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around less than 100 meters in linear distance and will fixed rope.

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Highlights of the Expedition

Passing through terrace middle hills of Nepal, explore local custom, way of life, exploring Buddhists monastery, large numbers of panoramic Himalayan sights.

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Facts of the Expedition

Destination : Mount Manaslu (8163m)
Minimum altitude : 1522m.
Maximum altitude : 8163m.
Season : Spring & Autumn
Duration : 60 Days
Entry : Gorkha
Exit : Gorkha

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Mt. Manaslu

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Itinerary In Detail

26th August 2010 Days 01 : Meeting upon arrival at Kathmandu International airport, transfer to hotel.

27th - 29th 2010 Days 02 - 04 : Stay in Kathmandu for official procedure, overnight at hotel.

30th August 2010 Days 05 : Drive to Gorkha, overnight at tented camp.

31st August 2010 Days 06 : Trek to Khanchok, overnight at tented camp.

1st September 2010 Days 07 : Trek to Khursani Bari, overnight at tented camp.

2nd September 2010 Days 08 : Trek to Machha Khola, overnight at tented camp.

3rd September 2010 Days 09 : Trek to Jagat, overnight at tented camp.

4th September 2010 Days 10 : Trek to Nyak, overnight at tented camp.

5th September 2010 Days 11 : Trek to Prok, overnight at tented camp.

6th September 2010 Days 12 : Trek to Namru, overnight at tented camp.

7th September 2010 Days 13 : Trek to Lho, overnight at tented camp.

8th September 2010 Days 14 : Trek to Sama Gaon, overnight at tented camp.

9th September 2010 Days 15 : Trek to Manaslu Base camp, overnight at tented camp.

10th September - 13th October 2010 Days 16 - 49 : Climbing period.

14th October 2010 Days 50 : Back to Sama Gaon, overnight at tented camp.

15th October 2010 Days 51 : Trek to Namru, overnight at tented camp.

16th October 2010 Days 52 : Trek to Nyak, overnight at tented camp.

17th October 2010 Days 53 : Trek to Jagat,  overnight at tented camp.

18th October 2010 Days 54 : Trek to Machha Khola, overnight at tented camp.

19th October 2010 Days 55 : Trek to Aarkhet, overnight at tented camp.

20th October 2010 Days 56 : Trek to Gorkha, overnight at tented camp.

21st October 2010 Days 57 : Drive back to Kathmandu, overnight at hotel.

22nd - 23rd October 2010 Days 58 - 59 : Leisure in Kathmandu, overnight at hotel.

24th October 2010 Days 60 : Transfer to airport, departure on your own destination.

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Note : Whatever the conditions the itinerary stated follow, it is for the visitors who prefer full package programme. At the same time, we also serve you based on your choice. The selection of itineraries and the staffs depends on your choice and financial procurement. We have options for any partial visit as per your requirement regarding your interest and financial condition.

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